How often should I get my shears Sharpened?
Really there are many variables that dictate how often your shears should see a sharpener.
*First off, check that the tension of the shear is correct. Sometimes this is all it takes when hair folds or pushes toward the tips. Next, the grade of steel your shears are made of can factor in how often you get a sharpening. (The better the grade of steel, 440C or better, the longer your sharpenings will last.) We typically suggest that hairstylists get their shears sharpened every 700 to 800 cuts, or simply when the hair starts to "fold" or "push" towards the tips. Then the number drops when you add some or all of the other variables that apply to you listed below...
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1. How many cuts do you do in a given week, month?
2. What type of hair do you usually cut? Coarse? Dry? Dirty? Weaves or synthetic? Treated with Chemicals or Color?
3. Has it been a while since they were sharpened and your shears are not running smoothly?
4. Have you dropped or stepped on your shears and they just aren't the same anymore?
5. Is the hair folding or pushing?
6. Do you have a nick in the ride area or at the cutting edge?
7. Are you missing hardware or components from your shears?
8. What grade of steel are your shears made of, 440C or better?
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Caring for, Maintaining your Shears
1. Caring for and maintaining your shears or any beauty tool you may use is important and should be a daily routine for the hair stylist or pet groomer, if you expect many years out of your investment.
2. Wash and wipe your shears after every service, as hair and debris can create a problem in the pivot area where debris may not be visible. Over time damage can occur to the pivot where metal meets metal and the run of the shear can change from smooth to "rough and crunchy" because of hair and debris. Pet groomers shears take more of a beating because of the coarse hair they encounter on a daily basis.
3. Warped blades can occur when you cut things other than human hair or when you try to cut too much hair at one time. Be aware of these facts as many people aren't aware of the effect these habits can cause. We see alot of warped blades out there and sometimes this can be caused by dropping the shears and at times stepped on. In most cases a sharpener can repair this damage after an initial look-over and assessment.
4. At the end of each work day after a wash and wipe, oil your shears. Apply a drop of oil in the pivot area on each blade, then open and close them several times. Then take a towel and wipe the excess running the towel down the blade to the tip. This is a good habit to get into if you want your shears to stay sharp and last a long time. Also oil the tension screw (one drop) once a week. If you have an adjustable tension screw (click plate / leaf spring), make sure you oil the opposite side. Keep oil away from the adjusting components, as the tension may change because of this!
5. Check the tension for a proper run of your shears. To do this you will need to take the heavier blade of the two, (which is usually the finger side on most shears) and point the blades toward the ceiling while holding the other blade handle open all the way. Let the lifted blade handle go and let it drop on its own. The shears should close at half way to slightly past half way toward the tips. If you have opposing handles, (when there's no difference in blade size) you can use either handle to do this test. This is important because if there isn't enough tension in your shears, hair will fold in between the blades therefore making you use side pressure to cut. This repetitive action can do damage to your shears. Equally damaging is if the tension is too tight. Hair may push toward the tips and the blades and pivot wear prematurely and you'll have to get sharpenings more often, and even worse, you'll have to eventually replace the shear. Adjust your shear by tightening or loosening the tension screw with a coin or a properly fitted screw driver. If you have a leaf spring tension system it will be easy to adjust by turning the adjuster by hand. Some tension screws need a special (ufo tool) to tighten or loosen the tension. If you need this tool, ask your sharpener if he or she can provide you with one. These tools are usually included when you purchase shears that have ufo tension screws.
6. When storing your shears place them in a case designed for shears or if not, wrap them in a towel and store in a safe place. Let them breathe.
7. If you follow this routine, you should be able to protect your "shear" investment for many years. And you could show your co-workers how important it is to care and maintain your beauty tools.